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Archive for the ‘Drawing in Graphite, Drawing to Learn’ Category

Here’s the latest at Classes Near You > Iowa.

Sign-up today. This class begins in less than 2 weeks!


Brenton Arboretum, Dallas Center

www.thebrentonarboretum.org
The Brenton Arboretum is a 140-acre arboretum established in 1997 featuring 2,600 trees and shrubs. Most of the more than 175 species of trees and shrubs are organized by species to ease learning and to emphasize the importance of trees in our world. Plant classes for children and adults are offered year ’round.

    Botanical Drawing
    Saturday, June 1, 2013
    10 AM – Noon

    Instructor Teena Case will teach participants how she creates her botanical illustrations. Participants will learn how to begin a botanical drawing and will receive individual attention. Teena is an art instructor specializing in biological illustration and watercolor.

    Cost: $30 members, $40 nonmembers
    (includes graphite pencil set and sketchbook)

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Do you prefer pencil over paint?

Check out Mike Sibley’s new intermediate online drawing class!


Mike Sibley Fine Art

www.sibleyfineart.com
Mike Sibley is the author of Drawing from Line to Life, an inspiring instructional book about creating realistic drawings in graphite. Mike teaches classes in England, the US and Canada. He is looking into teaching a class in Australia in 2013. He also teaches an online course and is currently creating instructional DVDs. Mike’s website is a rich resource for the graphite artist. If graphite is your preferred medium, be sure to visit!

    Drawing from Line to Life (Beginner) – An eight-week online course based on Mike Sibley’s book of the same name. Beginners will learn fundamental drawing techniques, shading techniques and how to break a drawing down into manageable parts. Weekly homework will be assigned. Students may work towards certification or take this class as an auditing student. There are two versions of this course. Version 1 includes instructor critique and credit. Version 2 is an audit situation through which students can follow along, but cannot receive feedback about their work or receive course credit. Cost: $228 certificate course, $114 audit course. View Start Dates/Register

    Drawing from Line to Life (Intermediate) – A continuation of Mike’s class for beginners. In this eight-week course, students will begin to think about the message within their art and learn how to create textures, and explore negative space. There are two versions of this course. Version 1 includes instructor critique and credit. Version 2 is an audit situation through which students can follow along, but cannot receive feedback about their work or receive course credit. Cost: $228 certificate course, $114 audit course. View Start Dates/Register

This information has also been posted to Classes Near You > England.

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Professional graphite artist, Mike Sibley, has announced the start date of his next online drawing course at DrawSpace.com. This eight-week course is based on his excellent book Drawing From Line to Life (2006). Sample pages and reviews of this book can be viewed here.

Here is the latest at Classes Near You > England:


Mike Sibley Fine Art

www.sibleyfineart.com
Mike Sibley is the author of Drawing from Line to Life, an inspiring instructional book about creating realistic drawings in graphite. Mike teaches classes in England, the US and Canada. He is currently looking into teaching a class in Australia in 2013. He also teaches an online course and is currently creating instructional DVDs. Mike’s website is a rich resource for the graphite artist. If graphite is your preferred medium, be sure to visit!

    Drawing from Line to Life – Begins April 11, 2012. An eight-week online course based on Mike Sibley’s book of the same name. Beginners will learn fundamental drawing techniques, shading techniques and how to break a drawing down into manageable parts. Weekly homework will be assigned. Students may work towards certification or take this class as an auditing student. For additional information, including a class outline, go to the Drawing from Line to Life course page. Cost: $228 (certification), $114 (audit)

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Architect, lecturer and researcher, Ylva Dahlman, began to notice a trend in the graphic arts and design class she created for natural science and social science students. She noticed her students at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences in Uppsala, Sweden were taking more than art and design concepts with them when each term ended. What Dahlman observed were hints that the art activities students completed in class were having an effect on the students’ overall learning.

Dahlman created an investigative strategy to find out what that “something” (Dahlman, 2007) was that students were taking with them after completing her course.

Knowledgeable about research efforts studying links between artistic experiences and academic achievement, Dahlman decided to investigate her students’ learning.


Questions & Reflection

Dahlman’s investigation into her students’ learning process occurred from 1994-2001. The data she discusses in Dahlman (2007) comes from the responses and reflections of 220 students completing her class during this time period. Students filled out two questionnaires — one before the course began and the other when the course ended. Two key pre- and post-questions Dahlman asked were, Do you think your vocational studies can be influenced by art studies? How? and Do you believe that a natural scientist thinks differently than an artist?

Dahlman also asked students to spend the last 15 minutes of each lecture reflecting on their learning.

Ninety-three percent of Dahlman’s students completed the pre-course survey, 84% completed the post-course survey, and 75% submitted reflective summaries. From students’ written responses, Dahlman (2007) concluded that their artistic experiences in class:

  • Helped students develop problem-solving skills.
  • Taught students how to see their environment in new ways.
  • Instilled self-confidence in students.

Dahlman (2007) found each of these factors contributed to students’ overall ability to concentrate, resulted in students having a “changed attitude towards their studies”, and had an effect on their overall learning (Dahlman, 2007).

What type of art activity did Dahlman focus on to study the link between art and learning?


Dahlman’s Focus

Dahlman’s area of focus was drawing, specifically what happens during the drawing process. Dahlman (2007) refers to the act of drawing as “the pictoral process.” Dahlman (2007) claims the process of drawing turns “unarticulated forms of experience into non-verbal artifacts that invite reflection.”

According to Dahlman (2007), people make sense of confusing situations by grouping events into familiar categories. She says people acquire new knowledge only when they can overcome the urge to fall back on familiar categories. She says drawing is a great tool to use to overcome the desire for familiarity because drawing “often connects seemingly incompatible categories of experience” (Dahlman, 2007). Dahlman continues to say that through the act of drawing, “the world is being articulated in new shapes” and this takes us to a new level of understanding.

Eighty-eight percent of Dahlman’s students thought the art activities they completed in the graphic arts class had a positive effect on their studies. Regarding student responses to the question, Do you think your vocational studies can be influenced by art studies? How?, Dahlman shares two lengthy replies in her paper. Excerpts from these lengthy replies are included here.

One student replied:

Yes. It gives a knowledge of other ways of looking at the same thing. It yields a personal confidence. When it comes to problem solving, I feel that [if I] can make a painting of an abstract concept, I should feel more confident in other problem solving situations as well.

Another student said:

Yes. When I read a scientific article about, say, growth factors, I may understand all the words and accept their face value, but it is not until I make a sketch of the content of the article that I understand it thoroughly…..Creating pictures means taking responsibility for the kind of reality that you perceive.

In summary, Dahlman (2007) states it is important to view the world through the drawing process. As she puts it, “knowing is action” and drawing is action. Dahlman (2007) says it is through drawing that we “connect incompatible categories of experiences”. She also points out the act of drawing produces an object upon which we can reflect and it is through categorizing experiences in new ways and through reflection of the resulting object that we arrive at new knowledge.

In addition to describing her research project and results, Dahlman (2007) compares and contrasts the drawing process as a way of knowing to other ways of knowing (e.g., pragmatism, tacit knowing, metaphors). To read Dahlman’s complete analysis, search for this article at your local college library or order this article through the Wiley Online Library for $35 for 24-hour online access.



Literature Cited

Dahlman, Ylva. 2007. Towards a theory that links experience in the arts with the acquisition of knowledge. The International Journal of Art & Design Education. 26(3): 274-284. Web. [accessed 2 June 2011] <http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1476-8070.2007.00538.x/abstract>

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Practical drawings are mental tools.

– Henning Nelms

When Henning Nelms wrote Thinking with a Pencil in 1957, he wrote it for two groups of people:

  • People who wanted to use drawing “as a tool for thought and communication” but who did not know how to draw.
  • People who knew how to draw, but who wanted to apply their skills in more than one discipline.

To emphasize the fact that drawing has a place in all disciplines, Nelms includes 692 illustrations that are more about how to use drawings instead of how to make them.

Nelms advocates practical drawing across all disciplines and encourages readers to use drawing as a learning tool in all areas of their lives. Throughout his 347-page guide to drawing and thinking, he shares tips and techniques that make accuracy easy to achieve.

After establishing foundation principles inherent in all drawings, he begins an insightful overview of drawing tips and techniques, never once straying from his primary objective — how to use drawing in everyday life.

The topics discussed by Nelms include:

  • Drawing for practical use
  • Drawings requiring no skills – Charts, diagrams, webs and grids
  • Making easy drawings out of hard ones – How to lower the accuracy requirements of a drawing.
  • Tracing Techniques – How to use tracing paper and tracing techniques as a learning tool to aid in the translation of an image.
  • Creative Tracing – How to rearrange old material to create something new.
  • Proportions – How to think about proportions, take measurements, and sight with a pencil.
  • Fixed-line Construction – How to use parallel and perpendicular lines to create dimensions of space upon which freehand drawings are based. Of particular interest to botanical illustrators is Nelms’ discussion about ellipses and logarithmic spirals.
  • Constructions for Free-line Drawings – How to create constructions for even the most irregular natural forms.
  • Data Management – How to visualize numerical data.
  • More Data Management – How to turn numerical data into graphic forms.
  • Mechanical Aids – Tools to help you construct the parallel and perpendicular lines present in nearly every drawing.
  • Seeing in 3-D – How to see the third dimension and how to “draw as you go.”
  • Distortion – How to control distortion, create oblique drawings and manage ellipses.
  • 3-D Form – How to project form in three-dimensions.
  • Drawing People & Animals – How to draw figures, joints, muscles, hands, etc.
  • Rendering – How to render an object (shading, scumbling, stipple, folds).
  • Presentation – How to improve the appearance of a drawing through your choices in lettering and layout.

Included in this book is a glossary of equipment and material. When you read this section, remember that this book was written in 1957 and that some of the materials in this section may no longer be available.

The same needs to be said about the books Nelms includes in his bibliography. Nelms states he spent eleven years reviewing every book that had anything to do with drawing. In his bibliography, he only includes books he deemed of value when it comes to the practical aspects of drawing.

Thinking with a Pencil is a gem. It was reprinted in 1964 and again in 1981. Fortunately, this book is still available on the Web from used book dealers such as AbeBooks.


Literature Cited
Nelms, Henning. 1981. Thinking with a Pencil (With 692 illustrations of easy ways to make and use drawings in your work and in your hobbies). Ten Speed Press.
ISBN-10: 0-89815-052-3
ISBN-13: 978-0-89815-052-0


Disclosure: ArtPlantae is an AbeBooks affiliate

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© 2011 by Margaret Best. All rights reserved

Margaret Best is an award-winning artist whose work is held in the permanent collection at the Hunt Institute for Botanical Documentation and in private collections around the globe. She holds a silver Grenfell medal from the RHS and her work has been shown in many ASBA juried exhibitions over the past decade. She is currently preparing for a solo show of drawings and paintings in Bermuda.

Margaret teaches graphite, color pencil and watercolor classes in Bermuda, Canada, the UK, and the US. She has developed a reputation for connecting with students, regardless of their skill level, and helping them generate their own forward movement.

Margaret is the Feature Artist for April and will also be a contributor to EE Week. Please join me in welcoming Margaret Best!


ARTPLANTAE: Margaret, you have established yourself as an authority on color. Your botanical painting classes are actually color studies. You teach classes about the colors green, red, purple, and blue. What made you decide to develop these color-specific classes?

MARGARET BEST: Actually, I also teach other important technical aspects of producing a botanical rendering such as drawing, journaling, brush techniques, form, composition, texture/detail, etc. However, it is directly through the teaching of these various aspects leading towards the creation of a complete botanical study, that I discovered very few had encountered any formal study of color. Even fewer had been taught how to make meaningful color selections. Most information readily available on the topic of color is often highly technical and very intimidating or too general to be useful to the unique needs of botanical artists.

Some of my students, in the context of botanical studies, have attended classes on color where they were presented with certain color palettes and shown how to achieve other colors through various blending combinations. But these mixing exercises tend to be laborious and result in almost robotic creation of color wheels, squares or strips and did not hold any real understanding of what actually caused the results and how it related to the plant kingdom. And little or no information was provided as to how and why the colors they were being required to mix, were selected in the first place. In essence, if you do not know something about the color you are using to mix other colors, how can you understand the results it provides?

When I first started to take a few botanical watercolor classes myself, I discovered that I would be provided each time with a supply list that included specific colors to purchase. I soon realized that this would change from teacher to teacher. Whenever I asked why particular colors and brands were chosen, I was seldom given a satisfactory explanation. For the most part, the answers appeared to be drawn from a teacher’s personal response to color or their own practical art background, rather than decisions based on sound testing or research of currently available materials.

As an artist I felt compelled to explore all the pigments available to me in watercolor and as a teacher I believed I was required to be able to provide solid reasons for my selections within the botanical context. So I set about testing every pigment I could find and some manufacturers, particularly M.Graham and Winsor and Newton, were very supportive of my interest and my process of testing. Other resources such as the Michael Wilcox books on watercolor paints and handprint.com were also useful, although I found I did not always agree with their test results. I then set about the process of acceptance and elimination of pigment colors based specifically on the interests of botanical art and my need to create a functional palette.

In my teaching, I decided the best way to impart my knowledge was to focus on the individual hues and to have my students explore the possibilities of each in separate workshops. We test and analyze the individual pigments for suitability to botanical art and then apply the knowledge in a botanical rendering to reinforce their findings.


AP: What is your opinion about the use of a limited palette for botanical artists?

MB: Unfortunately, Mother Nature provides a wider range of color than can be achieved with six primary colors. Full-spectrum color in painting just cannot be simplified that way – it is frankly too restricting and color accuracy is a distinct part of the scientific component of botanical art. I am aware that some teachers suggest the use of a limited palette of six primary colors to minimize the upfront investment in paints and also to encourage students to learn how to mix a wide range of color options by varying the ratios in the combinations of the chosen six colors.

Also, I have taken classes from teachers with this limited palette approach and watched the “pain” that fellow students (with minimal color knowledge) experienced from the limitations it imposed. But I know from years of experience in my own painting and also 22 years of teaching color matching in a commercial world, that this is a very complicated and stifling approach especially to beginners.

There are some fantastic secondary and tertiary colors available in permanent, mono-pigmented form right in a tube. These will add more vibrancy and life (as well as easily repeatable accuracy) to a botanical painting than most complex, blended primary color combinations.


AP: Besides the actual hue performance of pigments available on the market, are there any other properties of pigment that are important to know?

MB: Definitely. Most importantly permanency, transparency and toxicity.

I urge my students to avoid the allure of brilliance in colors like Opera that are not lightfast. The English artist Turner ignored warnings that he was using paint that would fade over time. Imagine having a legacy of being an artist that knowingly sold paintings that would fade!

The vast majority of my paints are transparent and I encourage students how to utilize that transparency to the fullest extent. Some colors offered in watercolor ranges could be arguably termed gouache – very opaque. I know some wonderful gouache painters but do not enjoy this medium personally or currently teach the use of paints that contain white pigment. I should also point out that I avoid paints that contain black pigment too.

On the topic of toxicity, I gave up cadmiums many years ago and took this message to my students – not only because of their toxicity but also because of their opacity. There are so many other wonderful options in yellow, orange and red hues to cadmiums that are transparent and very effective in color matching.


AP: Margaret, don’t you have a “white” class too?

MB: Indeed I do give a class on how to paint white flowers. But I offer this to more experienced students and those that have attended some of my color workshops. I believe you need a certain understanding of how to achieve the colors you want through exploring color before you can approach ways in which to “imply” whiteness with the appropriate degree of delicacy and light bias.


AP: You study color with such enthusiasm. What is it about color that gets to you?

MB: In my life BB (Before Botanicals) I was actively involved in a company with my husband, selling and distributing pigment to textile printers. This has spanned a period of 22 years. Incidentally, I remain involved in a technical , advisory capacity.

The demand on textile printers, by retailers and major clothing brands, for color accuracy is extremely high. I learned very quickly the value of consistent high quality pigment in order to be able to produce efficient and accurate color matches. I also became aware in a very hands-on way just how many colors were required in a basic palette to cover the blending of just about any color that was thrown at me. Vibrant, dull, muted, pastel or any other descriptive word – it had to get done with speed using the least number of pigments to make it easily repeatable. I trained color matchers, working for printers in all the major cities across Canada, how to accomplish this with our pigments.

So I guess this ability to respond to a demanding world of color accuracy became a part of me. I discovered also that pigments are universal to all color mediums and that the pigments used in textile inks were the same as those used in watercolor, oil paints, the automotive industry, etc. So all these pigments found in watercolors were already known to me. It was not long before I realized that our specific genre has unique color needs and that many paints offered by a number of manufacturers are of no use to us at all. And I felt that my students should know why some pigments can really do wonders for your artistic endeavors while others reduce your colors to a muddy mess.

My strict rule is:
Test and know every pigment you use intimately. Never test a color on a masterpiece!


AP: You learned about the work of contemporary botanical artists in the late ’90s. What type of art did you create before this chance encounter?

MB: I have painted all my life – starting literally when I was a child. My late father decided that few artists make a decent living so I was allowed art as a hobby and he steered me into teaching as a career. He generously paid for me to have weekly private art tuition. I stayed with the same tutor for 9 years and she exposed me to a wide range of mediums. But she encouraged me to focus on graphite, colored pencil and pen and ink rather than watercolor. She favored a loose and painterly style seen in skillful plein air landscapes and flower paintings and because I naturally lean more towards tight detail, I just could not pull it off to her satisfaction. But I could be as controlled and as detailed as I liked with graphite, colored pencil and pen and ink. I was also drawn to architectural studies in a strong way, but then also loved to do graphite and pastel studies of animals as well. Interestingly though through the years, I often sought botanical and found applying the intense detail very satisfying.


AP: Do you remember the botanical painting or drawing that caught your attention? What was it about this painting or drawing that moved you?

MB: I experienced a landmark moment but it was not one single painting that set me on this course. I remember (and will eternally treasure) the occasion when I realized that what I had been creating from time to time over a number of years was actually a defined genre called botanical art. I was amazed to discover that there were other crazy people like me around the globe that reveled in fine-detail depictions of flowering plants.

After immigrating to Canada some 30 years ago with my husband and then infant daughter, I was fascinated by the plethora of wildflowers that emerged in a burst of color each spring. So I began depicting them in colored pencil in fine detail. But believing them to be a personal record of my pleasure at the colorful emergence of life after a long, frozen winter, I kept them for my own and my family’s enjoyment and never attempted to exhibit them. They were framed and hung in our home and often drew admiring comments from friends. But they remained just that – records of the beauty of a spring awakening.

I consider my “chance encounter” with botanical art to be a gift from my mother. In the late 90’s, when visiting her in England to help her cope with health difficulties, I was encouraged by her to see an exhibition that had been promoted on a local BBC radio program. I was skeptical about the accuracy of my mother’s information but decided that a drive into the country with her on a sunny day was a great idea. If we could find the place she had noted on a small piece of paper, that would be a bonus.

After considerable searching we did find it. The exhibition was in a gallery in the grounds of a historical stately home at Twigworth and the artist featured was renowned colored pencil artist, Ann Swan. I took one look at her work and gasped at the fact that I had found another crazy person that had this intense love of detail in botanical subjects. And furthermore it appeared that she was successful at doing it .… for a living!!! I spent the next hour or more talking to her and pummeling her with questions. As a true educator and without hesitation, she generously gave me all the information I wanted to know about her materials, the existence of the botanical art organizations and so much more. I felt indebted, loved her work and bought a large print from her. I raced out the next day and bought all the colored pencils and paper she used. That was it – I have not stopped since – but I did make the switch to watercolors. Ann Swan is one of the leading botanical artists of our time in her particular medium and fully deserves her global recognition. I am not sure if she is aware of the impact she had on me as I have not connected with her since.

It was the legendary Anne-Marie Evans who helped me decide that the way I instinctively wanted to use watercolor would be highly suitable to botanicals and I made the switch of mediums. But I have never lost my love of both graphite and colored pencil and have returned recently to teaching both of these mediums.

Sadly, my mother has since passed away but I still have that piece of paper on which she wrote her note about the exhibition. A treasured reminder of her link to my future artistic endeavors.


AP: One of the things I admire most about your work is the movement in each of your pieces. There is always something flowing, bending, or swaying. How do you decide which aspect of a plant’s energy to capture?

MB: It is interesting that you have mentioned this aspect and that my work speaks to you in this way – quite a few people have said the same thing to me.

I believe it is linked to my intense study of every plant I depict before I commit to a final composition. And I feel it is essential in my teaching to have my students understand the importance of the observation and sketching/journaling stage. Many just want to get a drawing down in a hurry and start painting – that eternal pursuit of the instant masterpiece without having to earn it. But observation and sketching is the juncture at which you explore every facet of the plant’s unique structure and start to understand it – really understand it.

I distinctly remember Ann Swan saying that sometimes she takes up to a week or longer to work out a composition. That puzzled me at first. I felt I would possibly be too impatient for that approach and besides some specimens can die while the artist dithers about. But then I also read Margaret Mee’s book and how she relied heavily on journaling and photography to become fully acquainted with her subject and she insisted (as does another person I admire – Auriol Batten) on understanding where and how it grows. So it is rare for me to choose a subject in a pot or cut blooms from a flower shop. I prefer to experience firsthand how it grows naturally, how it adapts to a rocky cliff or how it hangs from the tree, etc. Living in Canada, that can be challenging as I have only 3 – 4 short months in which to do all this. So it is not surprising that most of my paintings involve plants found in other regions of the world. I have now been to Bermuda three times drawing like crazy (and teaching) in preparation for my upcoming exhibition.

I need to see how the flower holds itself naturally, how the stem curves, how the leaves are attached and the angles in which they are positioned relative to the rest of the plant. I never create just for the sake of creating – in other words I do not just start drawing on quality paper and pray that the composition will just magically evolve along the way. I “think” it all out through my sketching stage considering those unique angles, and any visual movement and flow. Like Ann Swan and my most especially my mentor, Pandora Sellars, I give considerable time and effort to composition and how to capture the essence of the plant’s particular personality. On very rare occasions Mother Nature just presents me with a perfect composition in front of my very eyes. But they are unique gifts that do not happen very often.

I always do extensive sketches of the actual specimen and take numerous images with my trusty, little Olympus Stylus. But my drawings always tell me more than the camera. My digitals confirm certain finer details and sometimes interesting aspects of light that I may have missed or not remembered well. But my camera work never controls my color nor final compositions.


AP: Drawing upon your many years of teaching botanical art, how do students learn botanical art? Can your observations be grouped into “phases of learning”?

MB: The quick answer is that I have not sat down and formally attempted to categorize the adult art learning process in specific phases or stages. I am having so much fun with the hands-on teaching that currently draws from my own training as professional educator, that at least in the short term, I will probably leave this to the academics of education. But I concede it is worthy of a doctorate study – if it has not already been done.

From my experience the defining phases of learning art is so much easier with children under the age of 12 that are still relatively free of inhibitions, fear of failure and other complex human behaviors that comes with adulthood.

I often say that when teaching art to adults it “can be like a box of chocolates” – you never know what you are going to get. Adults often come along with a mixed bag of just about everything ”The Good, the Bad and sometimes the Ugly”. I guess I have been hanging out in Hollywood quite a bit recently!! Joking aside, in teaching adults it is important to maintain a sense of humor and I have focused more on assisting my students to tear down the acquired obstacles and self-created barriers that get in the way of progress. I see this as essential for them to make the vital leap from knowing that to knowing how. And I then attempt to build the bridge between the two separate stages with my students but not for them.

Perhaps this can help explain. Most people remember with pleasure when they learned to ride a bicycle and the joy they felt to be in motion. Before getting on to a bicycle you observe and understand that it is the feet that keep the wheels turning and maintain the forward motion, that your hands steer the direction and that balance ensures you do not fall over. Putting it all together seems a monumental task until the exquisite moment when you experience the joy of the integration of all three key elements in one effective result. After that, you encounter all kinds of things that may try to slow you down, change your direction or even halt your progress, but once that controlled forward movement is felt and taken on board, the obstacles and any possible pain that comes with it, is taken in stride or put in context. The process of learning art is no different. But what bothers me most as an educator is that the half-hour solution and the need for instant gratification that many adults have learned to expect, sometimes permanently shuts down the process to carry on.


AP: Some notable teachers have created a step-by-step approach. Do you have one?

MB: I acknowledge the value of a step-by-step approach, especially with beginners. The success of this is seen in just how many “how-to” books are on the market. But I have not attempted to formularize my teaching approach and yet, given the amount of time and energy I put into workshop preparations, I sometimes wish that I had. I also believe that formularized art teaching tends to stifle the emergence of a uniquely identifiable style. At some point the student artist needs to embrace a wider circle of information sources that will enhance what they have acquired from the comfort zone that can become established by rigid step-by-step methodology.

I have heard many students say, “I can only paint well in the classroom and I am hopeless when I go home.” This is another manifestation of a rigorously disciplined teaching style. At some point the trainer has to let go of the bicycle saddle or take the training wheels off!

Rembrandt, for example, taught with a rigid approach that caused his students to paint so tightly in his particular style that it has taken experts centuries to separate his works from that of his students. I do not believe copying photographs or other renowned artist past or present, is the way to foster the meaningful learning of HOW TO.

But despite what I have said here, I should also point out though that in every class I offer a road map. My teaching is never directionless. I explain carefully what it is that I wish for (students) to learn from a particular exercise and how to fit it into their world. But I cannot make them fit into their world. They must be compelled to find the bridge and cross it and I feel honored if I can provide that opportunity. It is that moment that I find so rewarding – the moment when I know that I made a difference.


AP: If you were asked to provide a “Top 5 List of Suggestions” for classroom teachers and informal science educators wanting to incorporate botanical drawing and painting into their curriculum, what suggestions would be on your list?

MB:

  1. The need to nurture a fascination of plants and their importance to the survival of our planet, before a student even lifts a pencil. So the subjects chosen must have real significance in terms of their everyday lives.
  2. That botanical drawing is a scientific art form that is very literal and that it is a creative form of record keeping that has been with us longer than any other art form. This enforces its value.
  3. Educators need to foster the belief that every human has the ability to draw with meaning – it is only negative outside forces that can create a different belief system.
  4. The fact that every mark they make on a piece of paper with a drawing tool has value in terms of sharing information with somebody else. The more effective it is, the more information they can impart without words either written or spoken.
  5. That it is essential to fully understand the tools for drawing and painting before they can be applied effectively.


Also See…

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Now Shipping!
Katie Lee’s detailed instructional book about graphite techniques is back in stock. Comprised of 33 methodically planned and well-illustrated exercises, this book provides a solid foundation for drawing any subject.

Katie’s one-hour Ask The Artist presentation has been bundled with her book and is included with each purchase. Customer’s will receive viewing instructions after their order has been processed and shipped.

Read detailed book review

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Now at Classes Near You for Texas, Montana, and California:


Mike Sibley Fine Art

www.sibleyfineart.com
Mike Sibley is the author of Drawing from Line to Life, an inspiring instructional book about creating realistic drawings in graphite. Here is your chance to learn from a Master!

  • Graphite Techniques – San Antonio, Texas. June 3-5, 2011. Sally Cheever Girl Scout Leadership Center. View details
  • Graphite Techniques – West Yellowstone, Montana. June 12-17, 2011. Holiday Inn West Yellowstone. View details
  • Graphite Techniques – Los Angeles, California. June 24-26, 2011. Torrance Airport Meeting Room (Zamperini Field). View details
  • Graphite Techniques with Mike Sibley – Look for Mike’s next online class at DrawSpace.com.

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Drawing From Line to Life by graphite artist, Mike Sibley, is currently shipping for free from the UK. Take advantage of this limited time offer before new shipping rates take affect. If you are a graphite artist caught up in a world of watercolor how-to books, this book is for you!

Mike Sibley is a very good teacher and is one of the world’s few professional graphite artists. He shares all he knows with students in his class and he does the same with readers of his 287-page book about graphite techniques. In this book you will find clear instruction and more than 625 helpful and inspiring illustrations.

Here is your chance to learn from one of the best.

In his book, Sibley discusses…

  • The tools he uses
  • Line drawing
  • Tone drawing
  • Erasing techniques
  • Blending & Layering
  • Indenting
  • Working with photographs
  • Negative drawing
  • Perspective
  • Light & Shade
  • Transfer methods
  • Preparing & planning a drawing
  • Drawing ellipses
  • Drawing textures
  • Drawing reflections
  • Drawing foilage
  • Drawing hair

Drawing From Line to Life is an excellent resource. Take a look inside!

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The moment you open Fundamental Graphite Techniques by Katie Lee, you know you are holding something different in your hands. Something you’ve never seen before. Something you know you need.

Whether you view a graphite pencil as a mere stepping stone to a watercolor painting or you view a graphite pencil as the specialized tool of your preferred medium, by the time you finish this book, you will have fresh new insight into what can be accomplished with a simple pencil.

Katie leads artists carefully through thirty-three exercises. Each exercise is presented as a worksheet. Katie provides detailed instruction, helpful visual aids, and encouragement every step of the way. Through very patient instruction, Katie instructs artists how to think about their subject, how to see their subject, and emphasizes the importance of using both written words and illustrations during the preliminary stages of a drawing. Without much effort, Katie demonstrates how simple geometric shapes are really simplified natural forms. She makes it easy for artists to see how cones can be flower buds and apical meristems; how cylinders can be petioles, pedicels, branches, and stems; how spheres can be fruit; how cubes can be square stems; and how multiple cylinders, when viewed above and below eye level, can serve as the foundation for florets in an inflorescence.

What will you be able to do upon completing the exercises in this book?

  • Worksheet 1 – Draw lines
  • Worksheet 2 – Draw outlines & contour lines
  • Worksheet 3 – Create expressive lines
  • Worksheet 4 – Create continuous tone
  • Worksheet 5 – Create value scales in continuous tone
  • Worksheet 6 – Create hatched tone
  • Worksheet 7 – Create value scales in hatched tone
  • Worksheet 8 – Create continuous tone on a cylinder
  • Worksheet 9 – Create continuous tone on multiple cylinders
  • Worksheet 10 – Create continuous tone on cylinders both above and below eye level
  • Worksheet 11 – Create continuous tone on a sphere
  • Worksheet 12 – Create continuous tone on multiple spheres
  • Worksheet 13 – Create continuous tone on a cone
  • Worksheet 14 – Create continuous tone on multiple cones
  • Worksheet 15 – Create three-dimensional cubes
  • Worksheet 16 – Render convex and concave surfaces on a single subject
  • Worksheet 17 – Create continuous tone on a subject composed of connected surface areas
  • Worksheet 18 – Use line to create surface contours
  • Worksheet 19 – Create convex and concave contour lines
  • Worksheet 20 – Draw a sphere using contour lines
  • Worksheet 21 – Draw folds
  • Worksheet 22 – Draw the twisting/folding features of plants
  • Worksheet 23 – Draw the twisting and graceful features of grass
  • Worksheet 24 – Draw a pumpkin
  • Worksheet 25 – Draw a raspberry
  • Worksheet 26 – Draw grapes
  • Worksheet 27 – Draw a pinto bean and its pigment pattern
  • Worksheet 28 – Sketch using different sketching techniques
  • Worksheet 29 – Measure a specimen with your eye
  • Worksheet 30 – Create a line drawing of a folded leaf
  • Worksheet 31 – Draw a stem with leaves
  • Worksheet 32 – Draw a head of garlic and its roots
  • Worksheet 33 – Draw a flower

Would you like to learn from Katie Lee yourself?

Katie Lee discusses the value of lines, the significance of tone, and her approach to drawing in a recording of her live presentation given on Tuesday November 9, 2010. Learn how you can view this presentation at home.

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Readers submitted great questions for this month’s Ask The Artist with Diane Cardaci. A warm thank you to both readers and Diane. Diane has given generously of her time and expertise of graphite techniques and how to learn from the Old Masters. Be sure to read through the questions below to find out how you can download a special PDF document Diane created about studying the work of the Old Masters.



1. Your work is just wonderful. I love drawing and working with pencils (both colored and graphite) as well. I was excited to see the Ornithogalum on the cover of Flowers & Botanicals. I happened upon this same plant earlier this year and did a graphite drawing of nearly the same view myself! I notice that my rendering is not quite as smooth/delicate as yours, but see in Flowers & Botanicals that you used some graphite powder washes to lay down tone initially. This may sound silly, but my question is this – do you use graphite powder from a particular pencil, for example, a 2B or something softer? Or doesn’t it matter once it’s powdered? I would love to try it in my future drawings.

Thank you so much for your kind words, and sharing your beautiful drawing. I think that there is a great point here to make regarding both our drawings. Today, there is so much emphasis on “being different”, that we sometimes forget that the essence of creativity is our individual response to a particular subject/topic and that the subject does not need to be dramatically different from what others choose to draw/paint. We both chose the same subject and practically the same view, yet our drawings are clearly different and are a reflection of our individual styles.

Your question regarding the graphite powder is a great one. You will definitely find that using powder from different pencils will give different effects. I like to use powder from soft pencils, like a 6B. But I always want to encourage people to experiment with different pencils, techniques etc. and find out for themselves what “feels” right. I recommend making small swatches, using different grades of graphite, and also using different papers. It is also great to experiment with different ways of applying or smearing the graphite. Experiment with a brush, facial tissue, stumps, and anything else that you might think of. You can also purchase a jar of graphite powder if you really enjoy the technique.


2. This is a fascinating interview. Would (Diane) be willing to suggest several particular Old Master drawings that would be good to copy – where to begin?

I just love that you are thinking about Old Master drawings—fantastic! I think the most important thing to do when choosing a drawing is to find one that you really like. There are two reasons for this: 1) you will enjoy copying it more and will therefore learn more from it, and 2) you may find yourself wanting to incorporate what you learn into your own artwork.

If you haven’t spent time looking at Old Master drawings, I think the best place to start is on the Internet. You can Google artists such as Rubens, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Degas, Seurat etc. and just spend some time looking at the images. When you find one that you are particularly drawn to, see if you can find a high-resolution image of it, or better yet, one that is in print. For example, if you find yourself really loving the Degas drawings, maybe you can go to the library and take out a book on him that has great reproductions.

If you want more detailed suggestions, I have put together a PDF (inspired by this question!). You can go to my blog www.dianecardaciblog.com and sign up, and you will receive a link for the download.


3. What are common mistakes made by people who are learning how to draw plants?

I think that whether you are learning to draw plants, animals or any other subject, the most difficult part is to learn to look at the whole instead of all the many wonderful details. For example, if you are drawing a face, you first want to look at the shape of the face, and ask yourself—is it round, long, etc., rather than looking at the individual features. The same goes for drawing a plant. If you are drawing a rose, you first want to look at the BIG SHAPE of the rose, and not the many details of the petals.

Another common difficulty is in establishing the correct angles. For example, when you are drawing the stem, you need to be careful that the angle is correct—that is, it is not leaning too much one way or another. Also, when you draw the stem, you want to be sure the stem is directed to the center of the flower.


4. To what extent should I develop a graphite drawing when my true goal is to create a watercolor painting?

For most artists, throughout the centuries, drawing has been considered a means of study, rather than a medium to be used for the final completed artwork. It is a relatively more recent development that artists have decided to use graphite pencil to create fully developed pieces of artwork. Since you prefer to work with watercolor, it would probably be good for you to follow the tradition of using your pencil for the purposes of studying your subject with pencil sketches. The advantage of the pencil is that it eliminates the color issue, so you can really study your subject, thinking only about the drawing (line, angles, proportions) and value. Watercolor is not very “forgiving”, so when you begin to paint, you want to understand your subject as much as possible, and your pencil sketches will give you that knowledge.

In terms of the actual execution of your watercolor painting, you may or may not want to include graphite. Some watercolor artists like to combine a more developed pencil drawing with their watercolors, but I would say that the majority of artists use the pencil just to get an accurate outline drawing down.


5. Is there a pill for patience?

I LOVE this question!! We live in such a high-speed world, and the pencil is such a SLOW medium! But then again, maybe the pencil is the perfect antidote to our 21st century craziness! It forces us to just slow down, you just cannot rush a pencil drawing or disaster will strike.

I think that one thing that can help us develop patience is to once again turn to the Old Masters. They created such beautiful magnificent art—but it was produced in a time when there was no such thing as broadband, cell phones and microwaves. Life went at a much slower pace. Try to imagine an employer today (and a very demanding one at that!) asking his employee to stay on his back for 4 years to paint a ceiling. And yet, Michelangelo did just that and painted the Sistine Chapel, probably the most admired artwork in Western Art. When you look at all the amazing masterpieces that have been painted in the last 500 years, you will be reminded that no great art can be produced without patience.

One thing I think that helps also to develop patience is to get yourself nice and relaxed BEFORE you start to draw. Meditate, go for a walk or run, listen to some soothing music—do whatever it is that helps you unwind from the 21st century speed. And keep your drawing space as quiet and peaceful as possible—for many years most of my artwork was done late at night because of the “peaceful” factor.


6. How do I blend in graphite from light to dark?

In one word—slowly! The key to delicate transitions is to use very light pressure at first and build up with many layers. One exercise you can do is to practice making “swatches”—first put down a strip of a very light even layer of tone by using parallel pencil strokes. Then add another layer of strokes, starting to the right of where you started at first. Keep building up layers, always starting the new layer a little to the right of where you started the last layer.

I like to use an HB for the first layers, and then as I go to the darker layers I switch to a 2B and then if I need to go very dark I will use a 4B or 6B pencil in the last layers.

It takes a lot of practice to develop smooth transitions, so it’s important to not let yourself get frustrated. After a while, you develop a “feel” for how much pressure you need to apply, and how to make the transition more gradual. The good news with the pencil is that it is very forgiving—if you get too dark, you can always use a kneaded eraser to pick up some of the graphite.


7. Which pencils are good for creating a smooth finished look?

I find that the most important factor for creating a smooth finish is the paper choice rather than the pencil choice. For my drawings, I usually only use 4 pencils—an HB, 2B, 4B and 6B. These pencils will create totally different effects on different paper surfaces. If you are striving for a smooth finish, it is best to use a smooth, plate finish paper—I like to use plate finish Bristol paper (acid free and preferably 100% Rag). These papers have very little texture, so that the pencil strokes go down smoothly. It is much harder to create a smooth look with a cold pressed (also called vellum) or rough finish paper. These papers have texture, so when you stroke the paper with your pencil, it picks up the graphite unevenly.


8. Do you use workable fixative on those pictures where you use powdered graphite or carbon pencils? Or would that ruin the contrast between regular graphite and carbon pencils and make them both with a less shiny finish? Also, if you put the carbon down, then workable fixative, would it be possible to use graphite pencils on top? Thank you.

I only use workable fixative when I am absolutely sure that I am finished with the drawing, and only if I know the drawing is going to be shipped or moved around a lot. I prefer not to spray fixative on my pencil drawings when possible, because it definitely changes the texture slightly. But if the drawing is at risk of being smeared through shipping, then I feel it is better to spray it.

I don’t use carbon pencil in the majority of my drawings—I show the technique in my books, because I know there are artists who would like to use the technique, and it is very effective for getting very deep darks. In the drawings that I have used carbon pencil, I have used the same procedure as for my 100% graphite drawings, which is that I spray only at the end of the drawing, and only if the drawing is going to be shipped or subject to a lot of movement.

I never draw on top of workable fixative-it totally changes the surface texture. But as always, I recommend that you experiment so you can see for yourself the effects.


9. What advice do you have about drawing leaf margins? Should I get the overall shape of a leaf drawn first and add the margins later? Or should I try to get them in early?

Leaf margins are a detail of the leaf. The rule in drawing is to always start with the BIG SHAPES, as I mentioned in Question 3, before you work on details. So you want to get the overall shape of the leaf, and once you are sure the shape is correct, you can than go in and draw the details, such as leaf margins. The key is to draw very lightly in the early stages of a drawing. If you draw light lines, your later shading will cover over the initial lines, and you won’t need to do a lot of erasing. Some artists find it difficult to draw lightly—in that case, the artist can use a very light/hard pencil, such as a 2H.


10. I have read a great deal about using graphite and many drawing techniques. However, I would like to know about carbon dust or carbon powder and how it is used. Susannah Blaxill uses carbon dust but she does not have a book out and her classes are in Australia. Her work in carbon dust is gorgeous. Do you know any artists who use carbon dust or powder and what their techniques are?

I was first exposed to carbon dust techniques in my days as a scientific illustrator. I believe this technique was really perfected by the early medical/scientific illustrators. By doing a search on Google, I found a nice description of the basic techniques that they used. In addition to using brushes, which is described in the above link, you can also experiment with using stumps, tortillions, chamois cloth, facial tissue etc.

I have found that I prefer to use my pencil with delicate stroking for most of my drawings, rather than using graphite or carbon dust. But I will sometimes incorporate the use of graphite powder techniques in my drawings, which I show in my books. I tend to use the powder mainly when I want to get a quick base tone (sort of like a wash) on a drawing. However, when I do subjects such as portraits, I do not do this.

This is why I always encourage experimentation. Although I absolutely love the look of the carbon dust drawings, I found through experimentation that I actually prefer to work in a different way. Over the years, I have always made it a habit to try new papers, new pencils, as well as new techniques. The great thing about the pencil medium is that all this experimentation does not cost a lot of money!


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Ask The Artist with Diane Cardaci

This month we have a wonderful opportunity to learn from Diane Cardaci, a professional graphite artist and author whose books, including Flowers & Botanicals, are published by Walter Foster Publishing, Inc.

Don’t forget that you have until Sunday September 19, 2010 to submit questions to Diane. The questions submitted so far address the following topics:

  • Graphite Powder
  • How to study the Old Masters
  • Common mistakes in botanical illustration
  • Graphite studies before painting
  • Patience
  • Blending

Do you have questions about pencils, paper, or drawing tools? Is there a plant shape you have trouble shading well enough to make it look three-dimensional? Do cactus spines cause you grief? Wonder what it’s like to be a professional graphite artist? Ask Diane!



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